Modular Hydroponics Tower w/ Grow Lights

Intro This is a modified version of boundarycondition's Modular Hydroponic Tower Garden and some features of ghoofman's Smart IoT Modular Hydroponic Tower Garden. I finally decided to upload my remix of boundarycondition's Modular Hydroponic Tower Garden. I initially just planned to do a make, but soon I decided to invest some time and modify the project to suit my needs and capabilities. What I intended was: - I wanted to utilize the space as much as possible and this meant that I needed a tower at least 6 feet tall. Thus, the base of the tower had to be extra stable to support the weight of the tower. I might have overengineered the base to make it extra stiff, but it worked!

- I have a Prusa MINI+, which has a fairly small bed (180mmx180mm). This somewhat complicated things.

- Due to the weather I live in, I needed to place the tower indoors. This required the use of grow lights. I couldn't find a grow light holder that fit my print bed and could, in the future, be extended further outward as the plants grow.

- Finally, the project had to be modular and easily upgradeable.

Thankfully, I have decent experience with Solidworks. Thus, I downloaded the STEP files from the two aforementioned projects and modified a few parts. The pot lid and the LED supports were entirely my creation. I'll provide a link to the STEP files in case someone want to keep modifying the project. The tower has been up and running without any major incident. It has 8 4-way planting modules and 3 spacers. It is surprisingly stable and I plan to add at least a couple more modules once the plants grow a bit more. The pump I'm using is more than capable of pumping enough water all the way to the top. I initially started with 3 42W 4ft LED grow lights, but after a month I decided to try to add to 3 more for a total of 6 to provide better lighting. The grow lights are pretty well secured from the bottom with the arms I designed. I'm also gonna provide a parts list in case anyone doesn't want to do all the research looking for the specific pump or lights needed. Finally, I published a new project (link here) so people can print a lid for a standard 5 US Gallon Bucket. It's easy to source, cheap and with an increased reservoir capacity. I haven't printed it (since I have no need for it) but it should work! Hope this helps! QUESTIONS? Just leave a comment. I usually check at least once a month to update and answer questions. ATTENTION! I already found someone reselling the .STL files on Etsy. Be nice and abide by the CC license. The files are free and for everyone. I promise I'll find every single attempt to resell this project and I'll take appropriate action. I've also found people outright republishing the project on other platforms. I'd ask to at least change the pictures. I'm tired of recognizing my basement on the internet... Printing Recommendations These are the print setting I used. Feel free to modify them if you see fit: - Printer: Prusa MINI+ - Filament: PETG - Layer Height: 0.25mm - Infill: 20% (except the lid and the LED arms, which are 50% for extra strength) - Print Speed: > 40mm/s - Supports: Not needed (except for the LED arm tip, which has to be printed vertically, and the tag holder, which requires supports on the upper lip). Check the images of the slicer I uploaded) - Print bed: 18'mmx180mm (if you print bed is larger, you can print a 3-way planting module. - Brims: Yes - Perimeters: 3 (makes it watertight and adds extra strengh)

Due to the small size of the Prusa MINI+ print bed, I can only print 1, 2 and 4-way planting modules. If you have a larger print bed, you can print any module you want, since I haven't modified the size or the locking mechanism of the modules of boundarycondition's project. If you can't access the link, the STEP files are available in the MEGA link provided in the STEP files section. Recommended Parts These are the parts and components I bought for this project. All of them (except the IKEA pot) were bought through Amazon. This is only a reference so you don't have to do as much research as I did! - IKEA 9 1/2" MUSKOT pot: I usually fill it with 2.5-3 gallons of water. It looks nice and once full is pretty stable. If you cannot find this pot, you might want to check my remix for a 5 US Gallon bucket.

- EcoPlus 290 GPH (1098 LPH, 17W) Submersible Water Pump: The current tower is about 5 feet tall and the pump could go up to 6 feet while still delivering enough flow. It is quite enough so you only hear the trickle of water. It's rather relaxing.

- 4ft Barrina T8 LED grow light 42W: These are not the best grow lights, but I'm just getting started and I wanted to get some affordable lights to get started. You can install up to 6 grow lights. I'll update on how many I'm using.

- Kasa smart Plug: I use these smart plugs to control the scheduling of the lights and pump according to the plants I'm growing and their growth stage. The app is user friendly and allows you to add enough on/off events for the entire day (although I'd recommend you run your pump on +30min on/off cycles).

- Overture PETG Filament 1.75mm, 1kg spool:You can use the brand you desire, but I'd recommend PWTG over PLA due to it's added strength and durability (and the cost is the same nowadays).

- 1 Set Splendid Popular General Hydroponics pH (4.0-8.5) Test Kit Indicator Tester Up and Down, 30ml: I decided to use drops because it's simplicity and cost-effectiveness. Some other people use strips (which is basically the same idea, but more bulky) or pH Meters (however the cost and the errors due to calibration are not ideal for first time users). Use whichever you feel comfortable with!

- 2PCS 10ml Glass Graduated Droppers Lab Pipettes: Because I use liquid pH Test Indicator I needed a way to get into the reservoir and grab a small amount of liquid to test. With the pipettes its really easy. In addition, you can use them to measure a tiny amount of pH Down/Up with precision. Usually you only need 1ml or less, so it's quite challenging without a pipette.

- General Hydroponics pH Down Liquid Premium Buffering, Quart: I only got the pH down buffer because in the Rockies the water's pH is already pretty basic. If needed, also get the pH Up version from the same manufacturer.

- GROW!T GMC10L - 4mm-16mm Clay Pebbles, Brown, 10Liter Bag: These clay pebbles have the right size and don't alter the pH (the first few days the pH might vary slightly before it stabilizes). Make sure to rinse them before use.

- TIMESETL 304 Stainless Steel Woven Wire 80 Mesh - 12"X 40" Filter Screen Sheet Filtration Cloth: This mesh is used to prevent debris and roots from getting into the reservoir and obstructing the pump. This mesh is fine enough to prevent the roots from getting through. The only downside is that it's not easy to cut to shape. You can cut the circle that's sandwich between the two 3D printed pieces with good scissors. The holes for the crews and the tube are harder to make. Be careful, this mesh is sharp and you can get cut. I'M SERIOUS. I managed to make the screw holes with a drill and a template. For the big center hole do a medium size hole and then expand it carefully with scissors. I'd encourage anyone to find a better alternative.

- 3/8"ID 1/2"OD Cear Vinyl Tubing, 25ft: You can use any PVC tubing with 3/8" internal diameter and 1/2" external diameter. Always get more length than you need in case you need to make the tower taller in the future. When assembling the tower, cut the tube longer and just spool it inside the reservoir. By the way, don't use the metallic braces that come with the tubing. It will rust quickly and mess with the pH of the water. Just pressure fit the tubes in place. If needed, submerge the tube tip of the tube in hot water to make it more flexible when connecting the tubes with the pump or the dispenser module.

- 1.5" Rockwool Starter Plugs for Hydroponics, 28 plugs: I'd recommend rockwool for the plugs since it's inexpensive, it doesn't decay and it pH neutral. But for sure you can use other alternatives. Just make sure you get a 1.5" size so the plants have enough support.

- Hydroponics Set of Maxibloom for Flowering & MaxiGro for Vegetable Nutrients: I decided to go with a powder nutrient mix as opposed to liquid nutrient solution is other because I don't mind dissolving the nutrients before adding them to the reservoir. It's pretty quick) and you get way more for the same price. Eventually you'll have to do you own research on the nutrients needed and schedule. For now, if you only want to grow leafy greens, you only need MaxiGro and you can follow the directions on the back of the bag.

- Luigi's Aquarium & Fish Tank Siphon and Gravel Cleaner: This part is almost essential when doing the weekly water change. Once the tower is up and running, changing the water is rather difficult. The best way is to use a siphon (if you don't know what it is, you can check it out here). However, being so close to the ground makes starting a siphon rather tricky. This pump streamlines the process. Just make sure you have a bucket nearby!

In addition, the following screws are needed: - 9x #8-32 x 1-1/2 in. machine screws & nuts (for the LED arms)

- 24x #10-32 x 1 in. machine screws & nuts (for the lid AND to attach the LED Attachment piece to the lid)

- 6x #6-32 x 3/4 in. machine screws & nuts (for the mesh filter)

Obviously you can find alternatives and/or better components. This is just a guide. STEP files The STEP files for this project can be found here. I've also uploaded the original project (boundarycondition's project) in case anyone needs old components. Minimum Build At the very least, you need the following parts: - 1x 4-Way_Planting_Module_Hollow_Twist.STL - 1x Dispenser_Module_Internal.STL - 1x Filling_Cap.STL - 1x Filling_Cap_Symbol.STL - 3x IKEA_Muskot_24cm_Petal.STL - 1x IKEA_Muskot_24cm_Petal_Plain.STL - 2x IKEA_Muskot_24cm_Petal_w_Hole.STL - 3x LED_Holder_Arm.STL - 3x LED_Holder_Attachment.STL - 3x LED_Holder_Tip.STL - 1x Lid_Without_Holes.STL - 1x Module_Spacer_40mm.STL (it goes at the bottom of the tower to provide enough clearance to open the watering and pump caps). - 1x Pump_Cap.STL - 1x Pump_Cap_Symbol.STL - 4x Standard_Pot_02_For_4-5-Way_Planting_Module.STL

Tower Assembly The assembly of the tower is pretty intuitive, but I'll briefly describe how to assemble some key parts and their function. Bucket lid: The tower was designed to fit on a 24cm (9 1/2in ) MUSKOT pot from IKEA. I'm aware that the availability of the pot has decreased since I released the design. I might release a new lid design to fit a different pot, but I'd encourage people to develop their own if they know enough CAD. The lid is made out of 6 different pieces or "petals". Right now, there are three different petals design: - Petal: You need three and only three. These petals have a tab where the tower meets the lids so it locks in place. To ensure the tower locks in place, these petals have to alternate with any of the other two types of petals (see picture). - Plain petal: This petal type has no tab or hole. - Petal with hole: This petal type has a hole for watering, electrical wires or simply access to the reservoir.

Thus, you need three petals and a total of three plain petals AND/OR petals with holes. Up to you. All petals have the holes to mount the lights. Fasten everything together using the #10-32 x 1in. screws. It's been observed that sometimes water drips out of the lid. This is sometimes due to capillarity and condensation. The only way to mostly solve the issue is to add some sealant (such as silicone) between the petals when assembling the lid together. I'd also advice to put a plate under the reservoir to catch any accidental spill. Filter: The main function of the filter is to prevent particles from clogging the pump in the reservoir. The mesh also slows down the intrusion of roots into the reservoir. However, don't expect the filter to completely block the roots. They'll always find a way into the reservoir. Thus, you will have to trim the roots that got in the reservoir as part of the general maintenance of the tower. To assemble, check the pictures I posted for specific screw sizes. Cut a circle out of the steel mesh carefully. You can cut the circle that's sandwich between the two 3D printed pieces with good scissors. The holes for the crews and the tube are harder to make. Be careful, this mesh is sharp and you can get cut. I'M SERIOUS. I managed to make the screw holes with a drill and a template. For the big center hole do a medium size hole and then expand it carefully with scissors. I'd encourage anyone to find a better alternative. You can use a finer mesh than the one posted. Don't go too fine or the flow of water could be blocked once the roots colonize the area. Again, the roots will find a way, so there is no point in going too thin. LED: The assembly is pretty straightforward. Adjust the distance to the tower as the plants grow using multiple arm extensions. Check the uploaded images for reference. The LED arms (the structure that hold the LED at the base) have three different sections: The attachment, the arm and the tip. - The attachment (LED_Holder_Attachment.stl) is always the same in any case. It has two holes to anchor it at the lid of choice. You just need two holes and it can be mounted anywhere with two #10-32 x 1 in machine screws and nuts. For example, if you have a 5 gal plastic lid, just drill a couple holes! The 3d printed lids already have these holes.

- The arms mounts to the attachment piece with a couple 8-32 x 1-1/2 in machine screws and nuts. There are a few arm variants depending on what you need:

** If you don't need extra distance between the tower and the LED and you are using the 3d printed lid, you can use the LED_Holder_Arm.STL.stl. This setup gives you a 9in clearance between the lights and the tower. ** If you want some extra clearance, use the LED_Holder_Arm_Root_Section.stl variant. This has a different tip which allows you to use the LED_Holder_Arm_Extra_Section.STL and LED_Holder_Arm_Extra_Section_Mirror.STL ALTERNATIVELY to extend the arm's reach and increase the distance. I use one of each and that increases the clearance by 5 inches (each increases the clearance by 2.5in approx..). Thus, the distance between my lights and the towers is 14in total. ** If you need to mount the lid on a flat surface (such as a 5 gal plastic lid) us the FLAT variants. They have a flat bottom that can rest on any flat surface. - The tip. This is where the LED slides in. Pretty simple and easy to replace if you need a different LED. Is mounted using the same screws as the arm section. If you are using extra arm sections, you need to use the LED_Holder_Arm_Tip_Adapter.stl to fill the gap at the tip.

How to Operate the Tower I will write a short "manual" on how to maintain and operate your tower. This section is still a "work in progress". However, I'll start posting as soon as the paragraphs are ready. Firstly, it is recommended that you do a full water change every week, in order to reduce the chance of pests and diseases and the build up of waste. When filling up the reservoir during the water change, add fertilizer as directed. Initially, during the early growth period, don't use the full fertilizer does, as you could kill the young seedling. Once the plants mature, you can go to full strength. After you add the fertilizer, check the pH of the water in the reservoir and adjust accordingly, small amounts at a time. Always check before adding more. The pH will depend on the fertilizer dose and the natural pH of you tap water. I usually have to use pH down (not too much) since my water has a pH of 8. During the week, you'll have to keep an eye on the water pH. Adjust as needed. You should also keep refilling the reservoir as needed so the water level doesn't go too low. Remember, you cannot run the pump dry! During the early growth stages, the level will barely go down. However, once the plants mature, you might have to add up to a gallon of water a day. I currently have 40 plants growing on my tower and they consume almost a gallon (around 3.76 liter) a day! I add water with some fertilizer and always check the pH. With these many plants, the pH will swing substantially. If you want to always have the pH under control, this reservoir is too small and you'll have to limit yourself to 12-15 plants max. I've consistently run this tower with almost 40 plants for months and despite the large pH swings the plants seemed unaffected and grew fine. But you'll have to decide for yourself. Once the plants grow, the roots will start filling up the tower. Eventually, they'll find their way down to the reservoir. Even though I redesigned filtration unit to prevent as much as possible the roots from accessing the reservoir, the filtration mesh I'm using (which is a window screen) is not fine enough and the roots will eventually go through the holes or the sides and enter the reservoir. Thus, regular maintenance is a must. This is discussed in the next section. Maintenance Although minimal daily interaction with the tower is required, some maintenance and checkup is required. Daily maintenance: Not much is required to do daily. Depending on the growth stage, some things you might want to check every day are: - Water level: At peak production, you might have to refill the reservoir with nutrients and water daily. 40 plants can use all the water in the reservoir if growing healthy.

- Pollination: Yes, if you manage to grow flowering plants, you will have to pollinate by hand. Different plants are pollinated differently by hand. Always goggle it first. For example, to pollinate tomatoes gently shake the plants a few times a day.

Weekly maintenance: At least once a week, you'll have to do: - Water change: Completely change the water in the reservoir and refill it with fresh water and nutrients. Always make sure the pump is unplugged to prevent it from accidentally running while dry. - Check for leaks, mold, undesired growth or other issues: Use your common sense and check for any issues that could get worse. I know it's pretty vague, but you'll quickly get a sense of what I mean.