Leopard FPV Drone

Let me be clear about one thing. I like drones. And I like printing them. It drives down costs, it makes parts easily replaceable, and it enables all a whole new kind of design philosophy. So I've certainly made a good few of them myself. But this thing here? It's my best yet. The first thing you'll notice is the complete lack of sharp corners on any load bearing part. Nowhere for stresses to concentrate. Even the vent holes in the plates are circular, the strongest shape of perforation. The arms are shaped like ellipses, aligned in the likely direction of a crash. If you imagine the force of an incoming impact acting on the frame, it offers no place for a facture to form easily. In other words you get the most out of your plastic, no Achille's heel. The rest of the improvements are quality of life. TPU bumpers for arms improve durability, while the semi open motor housing gives you something to grip when installing props. A more spacious interior (finally) fits even the wider 30x30 stacks, and you can select from a variety of parts to match the hardware you've got. In the back, a single block neatly holds the receiver antenna, GPS, and either a 3mm or 4mm video antenna, and a camera guard in the front that can be braced by 20mm aluminum standoffs. And now, without any further adieu, here lie the details of the build. Read them carefully. The Electronics: - 1x flight controller / ESC stack - No taller than 20mm if using 20x20 or 25.5x25.5

- No taller than 18mm if using 30.5x30.5

- what I used: SKYSTARS F722 HD MINI 55A STACK

- 4x 22xx size brushless motor - what I used: RCINPOWER GTSV2 2207 2500KV

- 1x ELRS receiver - what I used: HAPPYMODEL EP1 2.4GHZ

- 1x HGLRC M100 GPS - I made the mount specifically for this affordable module, but since it's TPU you might be able to stuff in a similar GPS unit if you're lucky

- what I used: HGLRC M100

- 1x Digital or Analog FPV system - A digital FPV system comes with everything you need; the camera, transmitter, and antenna

- An analog FPV setup usually requires camera, transmitter, and antenna be obtained separately

- what I used: RUNCAM VISTA WASP PHOENIX HD

- 1x LiPo Battery - Depending on the KV value of your motors, you choose a battery

- For example, motors with KV around 2400 want a 4S ~1600 mAh battery

- While motors closer to 1900 KV can handle a 6S ~1300mAh battery

- What I used: OVONIC 5S 1550MAH (more power at my own risk)

- 1x ELRS radio controller - what I used: RADIOMASTER POCKET

The Hardware: - 4x 5" drone propeller - I suggest getting more as replacements though

- 1x 250x20mm velcro battery strap - Simply holds the drone battery

- 4x male-female pair MR30 connector - These are for the motor / ESC connections

- 1x XT60 female connector - Usually the flight controller / ESC stack comes with one of these

- 4x M3x22-20 screw - These are for mounting the FC / ESC stack. Depending on stack height, you can get away with 20mm screws, otherwise you need 22mm screws.

- 16x M3x10 screw - These are for mounting the motors

- 16x M3x8 screw - These are for connecting the arms

- 2x M2x25 screw - These are for attaching the camera guards

- 4x M2x20 screw - These are for affixing the VTX, but may change depending on your VTX

- 4x M2x14 screw - These are for attaching the rear block

- 4x M2x10 screw - Two of these are for attaching the camera

- The other two are for mounting the GPS *

- 1x M2x8 screw - This lone screw is for securing the VTX antenna **

- 3x M2 Locknut - Two are for the GPS *

- One is for the VTX antenna **